Autumn 2010

Weaves

Poplin
Tightly woven, durable cotton made with a plain weave and twice the number of yarns in the warp as in the weft.

Fil-á-fil
Plain weave with alternating dark and light threads in the warp and a single colour in the weft.

Oxford
A plain weave fabric of medium or heavy weight in a 2 x 1 basket weave variation.

Pinpoint Oxford
The same weave as Oxford, but with finer yarn.

Batiste
A thin or medium-weight, plain-weave fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends.

Piqué
Fabric has an embossed appearance created by weaving ribbed, waffle or honeycomb patterns.

Cord
A term used to describe the way in which textile strands have been twisted, such as in cabled or plied yarns.

Twill
A fabric produced by constructing a weave that repeats on three or more warp threads and weft threads, and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric.

Jersey
A tricot fabric which, for shirts and blouses, is most often light, smooth and flat knitted.

Bourette
A silk noil fabric made from short fibre (silk waste) with a textured surface.

Chambray
A cotton shirting fabric woven with a coloured warp and white weft.

Denim
Yarn-dyed cotton cloth woven in a warp-faced twill, usually with a blue dyed warp and a natural weft, so-called jeans cloth.

Flanell
Plain weave or warp-faced woollen twill fabric whose surface is slightly napped in finish.

Corduroy
A cut-pile fabric, usually cotton, in which the cut fibres form a surface of cords or wales in the warp direction.

Rib weave
Plain weave variation formed by using: 1) heavy yarns in the warp or filling direction, or 2) a substantially higher number of yarns in one direction than in the other, or 3) several yarns grouped together as one.

Seersucker
In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric.
 

Stretch
Fabrics that stretch by at least 10% due to the forces applied during normal wear. The stretch effect can be achieved in several ways, of which the most common for shirt fabrics is the use of very elastic elastane fibres such as Lycra. Tricot fabrics, due their construction, are often natural stretch fabrics.